[IBU] New Batch Sparge Technique
Cleghorn, Andy
Cleghorn.Andy at principal.com
Thu May 8 13:11:43 CDT 2008
I think for the most part this is a "don't worry, have a homebrew"
issue. Like most things in brewing, sparging is pretty forgiving. As
long as you don't do everything wrong you most likely won't have any
problems. I think there are a couple of main things. 1) Manage the
pH. Start by correcting your sparge water. Somewhere below 6 and keep
the temp around 170. If I am brewing something that doesn't have much
roasted grain in it, I add some buffer to the mash water, too. I have
not used that 5.2 stuff, but it sounds like a good idea. 2) Then just
don't sparge too long. I cut off by 4 brix. If you steep grains be
careful to not over heat the bag of grains. 170 should be about a max.
It makes sense that the less husk material you have in the boil, the
better off you would be. I recirculate until it is clear, but don't
worry much more than that. Having a pump makes that easier. I know
Rob uses a very fine strainer that he puts his run off through to catch
any husk pieces. That may be excessive, but you can't argue about his
beers.
________________________________
From: Becker, Steven [mailto:steven.becker at pioneer.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 11:05 AM
To: Mark McAndrews; Mike Young; Cleghorn, Andy;
amesbrewersleague at yahoogroups.com; Iowa Brewers Union
Subject: RE: [IBU] New Batch Sparge Technique
On the topic of tannin extraction; If I crush my grains to dust and mash
in as normal and circulate to clear the wort before transferring to the
boil kettle, will I have a problem with tannins? Assuming I circulate
long enough and all things being equal to a normal batch except the
level of crush of the grains, what do you think?
Thanks in advance for the comments.
Steve
________________________________
From: ibu-bounces at iowabrewersunion.org
[mailto:ibu-bounces at iowabrewersunion.org] On Behalf Of Mark McAndrews
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 11:06 AM
To: Mike Young; Cleghorn, Andy; amesbrewersleague at yahoogroups.com; Iowa
Brewers Union
Subject: Re: [IBU] New Batch Sparge Technique
Tannin extraction is dependent on both pH & temperature. You can boil
your mash in a decoction w/o worrying about tannins because the pH will
be in the low 5's. As your spurge continues the pH rises (steadily with
fly sparging, with each batch when batch sparging). I'd expect your last
batch to be the one with the highest pH. If that one is safe, your whole
process should be. Of course you could just taste a small sample of your
final batch. Unsweetened ice tea is the flavor of tannins, how much of
that do you taste?
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Young <mailto:myoung at mikeserve.com>
To: Cleghorn, Andy <mailto:Cleghorn.Andy at principal.com> ;
amesbrewersleague at yahoogroups.com ; Iowa Brewers Union
<mailto:ibu at iowabrewersunion.org>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 10:35 AM
Subject: Re: [IBU] New Batch Sparge Technique
I don't usually mess with PH measurements, so I didn't bother
taking one last night. I've got some of those crappy strips but I can
never tell what color they are anyway. I haven't had any problems with
tannins in the past, but I was kind of thinking this method would be
more prone to tannin extraction. You are at risk of extracting tannins
the longer/more you rinse grains right? I guess I've never really
looked into it because it seems to be more of a concern if you fly
sparge. Maybe I'll have to pull out the PH strips and see what I'm
getting on my next batch. I'll probably brew up something else tonight
or over the weekend.
--Mike
________________________________
From: Cleghorn, Andy [mailto:Cleghorn.Andy at principal.com]
Sent: Thu 5/8/2008 10:40 AM
To: Mike Young; amesbrewersleague at yahoogroups.com; Iowa Brewers
Union
Subject: RE: [IBU] New Batch Sparge Technique
Did you take pH and gravity readings on those final runnings?
Sounds like a good idea if you are extracting a lot of extra tannins.
Big jumps in efficiency make me a little nervous. I normally just do a
continuous sparge until I get my 14.5 gallons of preboil or the gravity
coming out of the sparge hits about 1.016 - 1.020. I average about 82 -
85% depending on the size of the beer. When I get the mash tun really
full, I lose quite a bit of efficiency.
________________________________
From: ibu-bounces at iowabrewersunion.org
[mailto:ibu-bounces at iowabrewersunion.org] On Behalf Of Mike Young
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 9:54 AM
To: amesbrewersleague at yahoogroups.com; Iowa Brewers Union
Subject: [IBU] New Batch Sparge Technique
While checking online forums, I came across a new batch sparge
technique that I tried last night for the first time. Instead of
equalizing the first runnings and second runnings, I decreased the
amount of sparge water and added a third sparge. This increased my
efficiency by over 10% which I thought was pretty amazing.
My standard procedure has been to mash in with about 1.4 qt/lb.
After 60 minutes, I would add enough water to get to half of my desired
pre-boil volume. I would then add the remainder of my sparge water,
vorloff, and drain the mash tun.
What I tried last night only took about 5-10 minutes longer and
was well worth it. Instead of adding a lot of water at the end of the
mash, I only added .5 gallons, stirred, and drained. Then I added 2.5
gallons of sparge water, stirred, and drained. I followed up with a 3rd
running using my remaining 2.5 gallons of water.
I calculated the recipe at 75% efficiency which is what I
usually get. After taking a refractometer reading, my wort was already
at the SG it was supposed to be after the boil. Since it was supposed
to be a fairly low-gravity beer I ended up boiling a little less
vigorously and only increasing my gravity by 4 points instead of my
usual 8. But plugging this recipe into beersmith with the gravity I
would have gotten from a vigorous boil, I got 87% efficiency. This
method will definitely become my new SOP and I look forward to trying it
out on some higher gravity beers to see what kind of efficiency increase
I get.
--Mike
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